October 2020 Week 2, The Wine Advocate
The 2018 d'Yquem is all lime cordial, grapefruit oil and mandarin peel to begin. With a little coaxing, the fireworks really begin, letting off a whole array of honeysuckle, candied ginger, dried pineapple, lemon pastilles, chalk dust and sea spray scents, followed by a savory undercurrent of shaved almonds, allspice and baking bread. The palate is an exercise in polish and poise, featuring the most gorgeously creamy texture and bright, sparkling freshness, framing all the densely laden tropical and citrus fruit layers, finishing with a powerful BANG of profound floral and spice perfume. It is wonderfully sweet, yes, but that?paradoxically for a 'sweet wine'?is almost beside the point.
'2018 is one of the latest-ripening vintages ever produced at Yquem,' Pierre Lurton mentioned in the video that accompanied my tasting of this 2018 vintage.
Indeed, the warm, very dry spell toward the end of the 2018 growing season meant that Sauternes producers had to play the waiting game for botrytis. Subsequently, the best wines of Sauternes and Barsac in 2018 came in as late as possible?in late October and even into early November. These wines have notably more botrytic character than the earlier harvested wines and therefore also livelier acid profiles.
Yquem was mainly harvested 22-27 October. This 2018 falls into line with the style of the vintage for sweets: a bold, forward expression of great purity. To its credit, it has just a little more poise, freshness and mineral nuances than many of the other wines from this vintage. There's a lot of sweetness here, but you really don't feel it.
Issue：16th Oct 2020
Drink：2025 - 2055評価：９８点